AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION GOES A LONG WAY

Soon our gardens will burst into new life.  Along with emerging plant shoots, insects good and bad will hatch and resume activity and pathogens will be spread by mother nature.  Now is the time to think about how we can prevent or minimize potential problems in our gardens.

If you had a problem with scale or mites last year, you may consider spraying your dormant trees and shrubs with horticultural oil.  The oil will basically smother any insects that might be hatching and crawling out from their winter hideouts.  It is organic and very safe to use, but it may also smother beneficial insects so be sure only to spray if you had a problem.   Again only spray if the plant is still in bud and when the air temperature is consistently about 10 degrees celcius.  Insects will start to become active at this temperature so timing is important.  You want to make contact when they start to hatch and crawl.  You probably won't completely eliminate the pest population, but you will definitely set it back.

If you had a fungal problem last year (i.e. black knot, silver leaf, cedar-hawthorn rust, etc.), a good spring clean up is important.  Remove and destroy any plant debris that might be harboring any spores or pathogens.  Also prune out and destroy any noticeably diseased branches (it is easy to identify black knot this time of year).  Make sure you disinfect (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) your tools after every cut not to spread the disease.  After pruning, spray your woody plants with lime sulphur mixed in with the horticultural oil to help prevent spores from reattaching.  Just make sure that the plants are still in tight bud and not leafed out.  Remember this is only preventative.  If it rains, the lime sulphur may be washed away.  Also fungal problems only explode if the spore is present, the weather conditions are perfect and the specific host is present.

Cleaning up and removing any plant debris will also help to remove or expose pests that might be pupating or hatching in the ground and therefore reduce their populations.

Prevention is probably the first step to keeping your garden healthy.

My Veggie Plan

I am excited.  This year I am renting a garden plot in a community garden to grow vegetables as I no longer have space in my yard.  So as I am sitting here watching the snow melt, I have been thinking about how to go about it.

The first decision I had to make was what size would meet my needs.  I opted for a 10 x 20 foot plot, which would adequately provide enough vegetables for my family as well as room for vegetables that take up a lot of growing space.  My family has already put in their order as to what we should grow.   This is based on what they like, what we can grow in a short growing season and what we had to eliminate due to allergies.  The list consists of lettuce, spinach, onions, carrots, beets, beans, potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini and of course tomatoes.  There are many more vegetables we can grow here, just ensure there is enough growing time to enjoy them at the end of the season.

I will be anxious to plant these crops but must be patient for a couple of reasons.  First I have to wait until I can get into the garden without compacting the soil and then I need to prepare the soil so that I have at least 12 to 18 inches of rich, deep, soft, loamy soil.  I may have to add some top soil and lots of organic matter (i.e. compost or peat moss) to get a nice balance between clay, sand, silt and humus.  This will also help to create a soil composition that retains water and nutrients for the plants and drains properly when needed.  Don't underestimate how important it is to continually work at a good garden soil.

Once the soil is ready, I can plant.  Typically I can plant once the danger of frost has passed (the May long weekend is often our guide in Alberta).  But it also depends on whether I start the vegetables from seed or transplant.  Cool season vegetables can be started  by seed up to 5 weeks before the last frost.  These crops are sometimes sown in the fall for the following spring and include asparagus, beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, swiss chard and turnips.  Some vegetables are more frost sensitive and should be planted on or just prior to the last frost.  These are considered the tender vegetables and include beans, corn and zucchini.  Finally the heat-loving vegetables should be planted 1 to 2 weeks after the last frost.  These include your tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, squash and pumpkins and you may consider transplanting rather than seeding to get a good head start.  Even with these guidelines, we must always be prepared to protect young plants from a late season frost.

Next is arranging your vegetable garden.  There is no right or wrong way.  Just consider what you are planting, how much you are planting, the space each crop needs and the sun requirements for each plant.  Typically gardens are planted in rows running east to west, with the taller plants on the north end to maximize the amount of sunlight each plant receives.  However, gardens can be planted in rows, squares or whatever arrangement maximizes the harvest and is easy to maintain.

Once my garden has been planted, I will have to provide a good, steady supply of water every week.  It is especially important from the time seeds are sown until a couple of weeks after they sprout.  As a general rule, vegetables need at least one inch of water per week, but ideally vegetables should never be allowed to dry out.  This year I will be applying a straw mulch in between the rows and around the vegetables to help keep the soil moist and the weeds down.

This is my plan and I am ready to go!  How about you?

Early Spring Pruning

One of the first tasks to be undertaken in the garden is springtime pruning. Not all woody plants need to be pruned in the spring, but here are a few good reasons to get out the pruners:

1. To clean by removing any dead, diseased or damaged branches
2. To reduce the overall size of overgrown trees or shrubs
3. To thin out any branches back to the parent stem to allow more light and air to pass through or to remove any crossing branches that could cause future wounds
4. To maintain a formal shape

Most species of trees and shrubs can be pruned except for:

1. Evergreens - do not prune until they are actively growing.
2. Early flowering shrubs that bloom on last year's wood - (i.e. lilac, forsythia, mockorange, cranberry, white flowering spirea, etc.)  If you do, you will remove some of the spring flowers.

Traditionally we would not prune Maple and Birch trees until fully leafed out, but new research shows that the 'bleeding' of these species from pruning in spring does not adversely affect the trees.  So if you need to do some pruning, go ahead.

Once you have decided what needs to be pruned, ensure that the plants are still dormant; in other words still in bud.  There is less stress on the plants and the risk of being infected by insects or pathogens is reduced.

Finally, a couple of other basic rules to follow include:

1. Do not prune more than 25% of the total volume as you will be removing some of the stored energy reserves that will be needed to recover from winter
2. Make a clean cut to an outward facing bud to facilitate healing
3. If removing a diseased branch, disinfect tools after each cut not to spread the disease further
4. Do not cover any wounds with a paste - let it heal naturally

Pruning is not as difficult as it appears, but if you have any doubt about what and how to prune, call an arborist.  Pruning appropriately does help to keep your plants structurally sound and healthy.

Arrival of Spring

Finally, it feels as though spring has arrived.  The sun is stronger and warmer.  The days are definitely longer and I heard my first robin singing away.  We are all anxious to get out into the garden, but we are still surrounded with lots of snow.  Slowly it will melt and put much needed moisture back into the ground.  Some of the tasks that need to be done once you can get into your garden include:  pruning of trees and shrubs before buds break (check with each species to confirm that it is the right time to prune), cutting back ornamental grasses and other perennials that were neglected in the fall to about 4 inches, cleaning up dead plant debris that might be harboring diseases or insects, adding compost to your perennial beds, spraying horticultural oil on shrubs that have had scale or mite problems before buds break (check instructions as to temperature application) and dethatching and aerating lawns.   Please note that if your bed or lawn is too wet, do not attempt any work until it dries up somewhat otherwise you will be compacting the soil.

Of course, there are tasks you can begin indoors, such as starting your seeds. A word of caution, however, not to start your seeds too early inside.  You want to time it so that as the seed germinates, you will be able to put the plants outside slowly soon after to benefit from better light and the hardening off process.  Most of my garden vegetables, will be sown directly into the ground once I can work the bed.  With respect to my Canna Liliy tubers that I have overwintered, I will plant them directly outside in their containers once the risk of frost has passed.  They will take a little longer to mature, but will catch up quickly if we have a warm summer.   Now the fun begins.