Some of my Favorite Plants for Containers

Papyrus 'King Tut'

 

FULL SHADE TO PART SUN:  (Morning sun best, afternoon shade)

• Trailing English Ivy
• Bird’s Nest Fern – beautiful coarse, stiff foliage
• Trailing Golden Creeping Jenny
• Ferns (Boston, Asparagus, etc.)
• Spider Plant
• Double Flowering Impatients
• Purple Leaf Coral Bells (Heuchera) (Perennial)
• Foam Flower (Tiarella cv.) (perennial)
• Cordyline (Red spike)
• Hostas (Perennial)
• Begonia (Dragon Wings)
• Vinca Vine ‘Wojo’s Jem’-Trailer
• Lime Cyperus (Evergreen)
• Cedars (Evergreen)
• Coleus ‘Versa Lime’
• False Spirea ‘Sem’ (Shrub)
• Sedum makinoi ‘ogon’ – trailer
• Kennilworth Ivy

Bird's Nest Fern, Heuchera
 and Gold Creeping Jenny

Emerald Cedar
with Dragon Wings Begonia

 

SUNNY, HOT & DRY CONTAINTERS: (All day sun)

Canna Lily 'Paseon' Versa Lime Coleus
 and Scaveola

•  Succulent cvs.
• Echeveria
• Flapjacks
• Baby Jade
• Blue Chalk Fingers ‘Serpents
• ‘Zwartkop’ aeonium
• Sempervivum (Hen & Chicks) Perennial
• Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum cvs.)
• Rubrum – red plumes
• Green fine blades
• Red Prince – very large wide strap-like leaves
• Princess Molly – full, wide blades
• *Potatoe Vine - Trailing
• Marguerite – lime green
• Ace of Spades – black
• Cordyline (Red Spike)
• Stonecrops (Sedum cvs.) - perennial
• ‘Purple Emperor’
• ‘Xenox’
• Trailing sedums cvs.
• Sedum cauticola
• Sedum ‘Angelina’
• Sedum ‘Dragon’s Blood’
• Sedum ‘Cape Blanco’
• Pony Tail Palm (tropical plant)
• Canna cvs. (also a pond plant) - wide leaf (green, burgundy or striped)
• Million Bells (Calibrachoa) – different colours
• Trailers:



Dracena, Euphoria 'Helena and
 Dichondra 'Silver Falls

• Woolly Thyme
• Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’
• Licorice Plant ‘Moes Silver’
• Scaveola
• Euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’ – light and airy (filler)
• Cyperus ‘King Tut’ and ‘Baby Tut’ (also a pond plant)
• Vinca ‘Wojo’s Jem’ – trailer
• Geranium cvs.
• Brown Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia cvs)

 

 

Succulent container

Edmonton Horticulural Garden Tour Photos

Fifth group of photos from Maggies Garden:

Cotoneaster Hedge
Amur Chokecherry (Young Tree)
Japanese spurge (Pachysandra terminalis)

Back to Front
Dwarf Korean Lilac (Hedge)
Barberry 'Royal Burgundy'
Variegated Dwarf Moor Grass (Molinia caerula 'Variegata')
Barberry 'Golden Nugget' (Mini Hedge)
Hen & Chicks (Sempervivum)

Back to Front (Left to right)
Kiwi vine (Actinidia kolomikta 'Male')
Hydrangea 'Quick Fire'
Ligularia 'Little Rocket'
Hosta 'Sagae'
Hosta 'Patriot'
Hosta - edging (small) (variety?)

Left to Right
Hosta 'Frances Williams'
Foam Flower (Tiarella)
Cranesbill (Geranium cantabrigiense)

Edmonton Horticultural Tour Photos

Edmonton Horticultural Society Garden Tour

Third day of garden photos from Maggie's garden - containers:


 

Light sun container:
Cordyline 'Flamingo' - center piece
Petunia 'Hells Bells'
Purple Heuchera
Perennials at base include:
Cambridge Geranium (Geranium cantabrigense)
Foam Flower (Tiarella)

Morning Sun Container:
Dragon Wings Begonia
Gold creeping Jenny

Sun and water loving Container: Papyrus 'King Tut'
Large Grass - Pennisetum 'Princess Molly'

Succulent Container:
'Serpents' Blue chalk fingers (Senecio vitalis 'Serpents'- tall blue
Aeonium 'Zwartkop' - dark purple rosette
Baby Jade - green bundle
'Ogon' sedum (Sedum makinoi 'Ogon') - tiny gold trailer

Succulent Container:
Flapjack (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora) - large round leaf
 Aeonium 'Zwartkop' - tall with dark purple rosettes
Cactus in front

Sun loving container:
Canna Lily - Phaseon
Versa Lime Coleus
Scaveola

Woolly Pockets - create a living wall
Bird's Nest Fern 'Victoria'
with Gold Creeping Jenny

Edmonton Horticultural Society Garden Tour Info

Day Two of Maggie's Garden Series:




Variegated Solomon Seal (Polygonatum odoratum 'Variegatum')

Rodger's Flower or Fingerleaf (Rodgersia aesculifolia)
Others to look for: (Rodgersia podophylla) Bronzeleaf Rodgersia

Variegated Solomon Seal (Polygonatum odoratum 'variegatum')

Foam flower (Tiarella 'Skeleton Key ') - Many different hybrids to chose from

Edmonton Horticultural Garden Tour - 2012

Thank you for taking the time to visit my garden.  I enjoyed chatting with you all and as promised, I will be posting pictures and providing you with information about the plants you asked about.  If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to contact me.  Here is the first of a series of pictures and captions.  Keep watching for your favorite plant.

From Left to Right
Clematis 'Elsa Spath', Clematis 'Ville de Lyon' and Clemantis 'Jackmannii'
(Hybrid Clematis - best planted next to a heated foundation for winter protection)



Clematis x durandii (Species Clematis - a scrambler)



Clematis integrifolia 'Pamjat Serdsta' (Species clematis - a scrambler)

Clematis 'Jackmannii' (Hybrid Clematis)

Dramatic Plants for the Northern Prairie Landscape

Paeonia  (Peony)

 

Native to Asia and Central Europe, peonies have been around for over a thousand years and have left an historical imprint in art, literature and medicine particularly in China and Japan.  In attractive shades of pink, red, white and yellow this long lived prairie hardy perennial provides beauty and grace in the garden year after year.

Although most of the peonies we grow on the prairies are herbaceous, some gardeners have enjoyed success with the tree peony if they have a protected sight.   Herbaceous peonies include the hybrids, itohs, lactifloras and species and are sun loving, clump forming plants that range in height from 35 cm -100cm and width from 30 cm -100cm.  The flowers can be single, semi double or double.   The foliage on hybrid and lactiflora peonies is usually a glossy dark green while the foliage on itoh peonies is fern like or deeply lobed.  Some peonies will need to be staked due to the size of the flowers and /or stems.

Peonies have so many characteristics that speak to their continuing popularity in prairie gardens.  Aside from being winter hardy, they require minimal care if planted in full sun with good soil preparation and where they do not have to compete with grass for water and nutrients.  Some varieties have beautiful fall foliage, while others are sweet scented, perfuming the whole garden.  You cannot help but admire these garden lovelies when they are in bloom, some of which sport dinner plate size flowers.  Peonies do well as an accent or specimen plant and can be used as informal hedges.

If grown properly they are rarely bothered by insects or disease (itoh peonies in particular), although some varieties are more susceptible to botrytis than others.  Divide in early spring or late fall to add more plants to your garden.

 Ligularia    (ray flower, leopard plant, golden ray, elephant ears)

Are you looking for a big impact plant that’s relatively easy to grow?  If you have lots of room in a partially shaded, sheltered spot in your garden, you might consider this popular summer blooming perennial. Planted at the back of your garden bed or perhaps in front of a fence, this perennial has none of the characteristics of a ‘wall flower’. Growing anywhere between 90 cm to 3 m tall and 50cm to 120 cm wide this tall, clump forming beauty with yellow/ orange flowers is sure to attract lots of attention . 

Native to Japan and China these tropical looking plants prefer consistently moist soil. Low lying areas or wet areas like those found around ponds are ideal locations for ray flowers.   Some people do plant Ligularia in the sun but keep the plants moist.  The sun will cause the flowers to wilt but they do rejuvenate when it cools down.  Regardless of where you plant your ray flower it is important not to let it dry out.

Ligularia ‘The Rocket’ is a popular choice in prairie gardens. .  It has spiked bright yellow flowers, large leaves and black stems.  Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’ has orange yellow flowers and the large purple leaves create a dramatic effect when placed against a white or light coloured background.

Although Ligularia attract slugs and are prone to aphids that should not prevent you from enjoying this unique perennial.  In their book Gardening Naturally (2011) Sara Williams and Hugh Skinner offer a number of easily managed strategies to deter and control both slugs and aphids.   One of many suggestions for slugs is to clear the soil around the plant of any vegetation so as to keep the soil dry and less hospitable (p.145).

To control aphids try using a strong stream of water every 2-3 days where there is a minor infestation exists (p.170).  Again, this is only one of many environmentally friendly suggestions to deal with a common garden pest.

Calamagrostis x acutiflora (Feather Reed Grass)

 As more and more gardeners discover the many benefits of this stately cool season grass it is interesting to note the changing architecture of prairie gardens.  An easy to grow and easy to care for perennial, this upright, clump forming, ornamental grass adds texture, form and motion to our yards.

As a cool season grass (150 cm-220 cm high) it starts growing in early spring and flowers in early summer, making it a very good choice for our short growing season. During the heat of the summer the foliage growth slows down.  Like most grasses, Feather Reed prefers full sun.  Although it flourishes in well drained, fertile soil it will tolerate clay soils and drier sights.   

As a specimen plant, Feather Reed Grass definitely makes a statement.  Placed near plants that have a round or horizontal shape this grass provides dramatic vertical contrast. It can be enjoyed throughout all four seasons and needs only to be cut down in late winter/early spring.   The soft gold tassels can be used in both fresh and dried flower arrangements.  Feather Reed Grass can also be considered an inexpensive friendly neighbour fence when placed along property lines.

It does require more frequent division than warm season grasses and if left unattended it will die out in the centre.  In early spring cut down to 15cm-25cm.

A Must for every Garden!

Hosta

A garden where all plants flourish is every gardener’s dream.  A plant that will help you achieve that goal on the prairies is the versatile, long lived hosta.  Most of the hostas with which we are familiar were introduced from Japan but they are also indigenous to China and Korea.   With over three thousand named varieties the choice is almost overwhelming.  While leaf colour is mostly limited to green, blue green and yellow, with some variegation of each, the choice of leaf texture and shape, and size (10 cm-120 cm x 15cm -150 cm) is a veritable buffet. 

 

Often when people think of hostas they usually think of two things, shade and slugs.  While it is true most hostas will grow in full shade they tend to be smaller in both plant and leaf size and the colour of the leaf may be affected by a total lack of sunlight. The amount of light a hosta requires varies with the variety.  Ideally hostas prefer filtered light or semi shade. The gold coloured hostas can generally tolerate a few hours of sunlight.   It is true that hostas attract slugs; however there are a number of hostas (‘Sum and Substance’, ‘Halcyon’, ‘Liberty’, ‘June,’ ‘Sagae’) that have leaves of thick substance and therefore are more resistant to slug damage than thin-leafed hostas.

Hostas function well as elegant ground covers, edgers and stunning accent plants.  They attract hummingbirds, and can mask the foliage of aging bulbs.  As a decorative foliage plant they offer many design advantages in the garden.  Some of the newer cultivars offer the additional bonus of being fragrant (‘Avocado’, ‘Cathedral Windows’ ‘Emerald Charger’, ‘Fried Bananas’).  Propagate by dividing in early spring and plant in moist, fertile, well drained soil.

Deer are not the only living creatures that enjoy nibbling on hostas.   In Japan and China some varieties are served as a delicacy.  Not only are the leaves, shoots or petioles edible but the flowers are as well.  Best to do your research before adding them to your appetizer repertoire.

Fast Growing and Shade Tolerant

Cornus (Dogwood)

If a four season shrub is a serious consideration when choosing a new plant then the cornus species may warrant your attention. In Latin cornus means “of horn” the implication being the wood is hard. At one time the bark was used in a mixture to cure dogs of mange, hence the common name dogwood. (Skinner, Williams, Best Trees & Shrubs for the Prairie, p.77)

In addition to being a hardy prairie shrub (zone 2), dogwoods have several features that would appeal to a range of gardening needs. There is great variety in flowers, fruit, foliage, stem colour, size and form.  As well they vary in their need for soil type, light and moisture.  Most dogwoods are considered shrubs but a few varieties like the Pagoda Dogwood are sold as multi-stemmed or single stemmed trees.

Each season showcases one particular aspect of the dogwood, but it is often the winter interest for which they are most remembered.  When the bright red, yellow, or purple- black stems hold court in the dead of winter we appreciate their contribution to out winter landscape

Dogwoods combine well with Hydrangeas and High Bush Cranberries.   For contrast try planting a red stemmed dogwood in front of an evergreen.  Whether used as a specimen plant, in mass plantings or as hedges, dogwoods are an attractive addition to any garden.

Old Fashioned Maybe, But Fantastic

Syringa ( Lilac)

For many of us, lilacs evoke the past, with pleasant memories of childhood, grandparents or a first love.  Although common to European and North American gardens in times past, this versatile, hardy shrub (-40C) is still a ‘must have’ for the modern gardener.

The lilac, a member of the olive family, can survive in almost any soil, providing it is well drained. Lilacs require a minimum of 4 hours of sunlight per day which means you have a good choice of planting locations with an equally good choice of survival.  They come in a variety of truly magnificent shades and are almost maintenance free.  Many lilacs are fast growing and thus are a good choice for those seeking privacy in their yards. A little judicious pruning will control size and shape, after the blooms fade in spring.  Several of the newer hybrids of lilacs have little to no suckering.      

If you need a feature plant or low growing hedge the Syringa meyerii ‘Paliban’ is a popular choice. If you are looking for a unique tree, the beautiful and fragrant Syringa reticulata ‘Ivory Silk’ might be the perfect specimen for your garden.  To spice up your spring salads, try adding lilac flowers.  They are edible.   Whatever your needs, with over 4000 cultivars of lilacs, there is truly something for everyone.    

For those who are passionate about lilacs, if you plan well (early, mid and late season bloom), you could enjoy the intoxicating scent of lilacs for nearly 8 weeks.  As if this weren’t enough, butterflies are attracted to the nectar of lilacs.  How wonderful is that?

Tough but delicate

Viburnum trilobum (High Bush Cranberry)

If you appreciate birds, butterflies, jams, jellies and juices then you may want to consider adding the very lovely high bush cranberry to your plant collection.  At ten to twelve feet high, this multi-stemmed, upright shrub, native to the prairie woodlands, commands respect throughout all four seasons.

In spring the plant is graced with large white flower clusters which develop into edible berries during the summer.  In the past, these berries were used by native peoples in the preparation of pemmican.  Although this shrub will survive in partial shade, for the leaves to achieve the stunning burgundy fall colour, it should be planted in full sun.   Throughout winter, the brilliant red berries stand in stark contrast to the white snow, providing winter much needed interest in the garden as well as food for the winter birds.

Keep the soil evenly moist from spring to fall and mulch around the base of the plant to hold in the moisture.  Amending the soil with organic matter is also helpful in retaining moisture.  Make sure you plant in soil that drains freely. 

The best defense against potential problems such as stem borers, or aphids is to keep the plant as healthy as possible.

Springtime Shrubs

Spiraea (Spirea)

Everyone knows a spirea.  These mounded or vase forming shrubs are probably one of the most common plants in prairie home gardens. Despite their omnipresence, one suspects they are somewhat underappreciated. 

For both novice and experienced gardeners this cold hardy shrub has much to offer.  For the novice it is a reliable, not too fussy on soil type, relatively pest free and disease resistant plant whose summer blooming varieties produce flowers well into the fall.  In short it is a good performer. Within the species there is enough diversity with respect to size, bloom time, leaf texture and colour and propagation methods to offer the experienced gardener some experimental latitude.

Spring blooming spireas, like the show stopping ‘Bridal Wreath” are a bright white while the summer blooming spireas offers varying shades of pink.   Leaves with colours like lime, yellow, red, or bronze really make the plant pop.  Some spireas may be considered three season plants with leaf colour in the spring, flowers in the summer and another leaf colour in the fall. Although they prefer full sun spirea can tolerate partial shade.

Like us, spireas appreciate a good haircut.  For the summer blooming varieties prune when dormant, in late winter or early spring.    Some gardeners like to cut them to the ground for a richer leaf colour and fuller plant.  Summer blooming spireas can also be pruned throughout the season.  The spring blooming plants should be pruned after the blooms fade and before they set bud for the following year.

What is that 'Yellow' mound?

Euphorbia polychroma (cushion spurge)

                  

For those of us who must share our gardens with the many rabbits that have been around in recent years, the cushion spurge is a plant that will survive the garden raids as the little critters much prefer the flavour of other herbaceous perennials.

 

This hardy spring blooming plant does not require any winter protection, can survive up to -40, is rarely bothered by insects or diseases and can easily be considered a three season plant. Once established this plant can tolerate dry conditions, which makes it a good choice for those interested in xeriscaping.

For 4-6 weeks in the spring you can enjoy the bright yellow bracts which are leaves that look like flowers.  After the yellow bracts fade away to green, shear your cushion spurge by half to maintain a neat rounded mound for the summer months.  Be careful to wear gloves when shearing as the milky sap can cause skin irritations.

In the fall the foliage turns reddish orange, providing a lovely contrast to your dwarf evergreens.   For best results keep your cushion spurge in loose soil amended with organic material and place in full sun.  They should grow approx 40 cm -high and 60 cm wide.

The Easter Flower

Anemone patens (formerly known as Pulsatilla patens) (pasqueflower, prairie crocus, windflower, Easter flower)            

The pasqueflower is one of the first flowers to bloom in spring. A welcome sight, these cup shaped flowers with their quirky, hairy grey green stems, provide a spot of cheerful colour amidst the drabness left behind following winter’s melt.   The plant (15cm x 10 cm) forms a nice neat clump producing flowers in blue-violet, lilac, yellow and cream.  After two to three weeks, the flowers mature to delightful airy, puffed seed heads which provide more interest in the landscape.

Pasqueflowers prefer a sunny dry area, and appreciate a little peat moss added to the soil. Like many plants they enjoy well drained soil.  These perennials are a nice addition to any rock garden or mixed flowerbed.  Try them at the front of your flowerbed or use them as a border in a perennial garden.  Young growth may be attacked by slugs and snails.        

As the floral emblem of Manitoba and a traditional healing herb for the Blackfoot, Cheyenne and Chippewa peoples, the pasqueflower or prairie crocus holds a firm place in prairie literature and landscape.   According to some taxonomists the prairie crocus is not really a crocus and therefore is not a member of the Lily family. It has been suggested that it is in fact an anemone which is a member of the Buttercup family (Prairie Garden Annual, 2006, p.61).  In Canada, the pasqueflower is found primarily in southern Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba.

Sound the Trumpet

Gentiana acaulis (trumpet gentian, stemless gentian)

On a warm spring day, as you stroll through your neighbourhood, keep an eye out for deep blue flowers in rock gardens, edgings or perennial borders.  Found growing naturally in North Europe, the Alps, Italy and Spain, when grown en masse, the carpet of blue in the spring is breathtaking.    Like a Van Gough palette, this true blue beauty is stunning when partnered with a bright yellow.

Gentiana acaulis is a small alpine plant.  At 8-10cm high and 30 cm wide this mat forming evergreen wears lovely trumpet shaped, almost stemless flowers approximately 5-7 cm in length.    Interestingly, the flowers only open when the sun is out.  As soon as it clouds over, the flowers close. Although these blue flowers are typically fashionable in May and June, on occasion, depending on the weather conditions, they have been known to make a second appearance in the fall. 

This alpine plant prefers moist, loamy, well drained soil.  Although it does tolerate some sun it grows best in partial shade, preferring morning sun and afternoon shade.  If you want to share this plant with friends or increase your collection you can grow it from seed, divide the plants or grow from offsets.

Early Spring Beauties

Vitaliana primuliflora  (Golden primrose)

You may have to search a bit for this little spring beauty, which some have described as the perfect plant, but it will be well worth the effort.  It is not commonly found in neighbourhood gardens but once you plant it, others will be emulating your style.  Vitaliana is a one species genus in the Primula family, named after the Italian botanist Vonati Vitaliano and is native to the Alps and the Pyrenees.

An evergreen, tufted, mat forming alpine, it flowers early to late spring with a mass of bright yellow, tubular shaped, stemless, solitary flowers.  The flowers are surrounded by rosettes of pointed, usually hairy, pale green leaves.  This small plant (2-5cm high10-20cm wide) will be a cherished accessory in your rock garden. 

Why is it the perfect plant?  It’s easy to establish, it survives in temperatures as low as -45 C and easily tolerates hot, humid temperatures in the summer.  This plant is not prone to disease or insects. The burst of colour and lovely fragrance appeal to the senses and signal to all that spring is finally here. 

The Vitaliana primulaflora prefers moderately fertile, well drained soil in full sun.

IT'S TIME TO ROLL UP YOUR SLEEVES AND GET DIRTY

If you can walk in your beds without compacting the soil, you can get to work.  Here is a list of things to do:

1.  A good clean up of debris is required especially if you had an insect or fungal problem.  If you didn't have a problem in the past, then leave the small stuff to decompose in your soil.
2.  Prune any shrubby material that requires clean up or resizing.  Ensure you do not prune spring flowering shrubs especially if you want flowers.
3.  Spray shrubby material with dormant oil and lime sulphur only if you had an insect or fungal problem last year and only if the plants are still dormant.  Check the instructions as to how to apply.
4.  Cut back any grasses or perennials that have been left for winter interest to about 4 inches.  It is important to do this before they start sending new growth.
5.  Start to slowly remove any covering over tender perennials and roses.  You want to do this slowly over a period of days not to shock the well protected plants with too much sun or cold temperatures especially at night.  Remember that we still can get a good frost.
6.  If you can work the soil in your veggie bed, you can start by adding more organic compost to replenish the soil and then start planting the cold season crops (i.e. spinach, lettuce, onions, etc.) - check your seed packets.
7.  As perennials start to emerge, it is a good time to move or divide some of them especially if they are too large.  For example hostas, daylilies and grasses.  A good rule to keep in mind is if the perennial blooms early in spring, lift and divide after it has finished blooming.  As such it is not a good time to divide peonies and irises.  Also perennials with bulbs like lilies and martagon lilies probably wouldn't like their roots being disturbed at this time.
8.  Now is a good time to add organic matter to your beds as the plants have not leafed out yet.  You should add organic matter each year (sometimes twice) to replenish the nutrients in the soil.

If you can accomplish these tasks in the next few days, then you are off to a good start.  Enjoy getting dirty and smelling the warm, rich earth.

AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION GOES A LONG WAY

Soon our gardens will burst into new life.  Along with emerging plant shoots, insects good and bad will hatch and resume activity and pathogens will be spread by mother nature.  Now is the time to think about how we can prevent or minimize potential problems in our gardens.

If you had a problem with scale or mites last year, you may consider spraying your dormant trees and shrubs with horticultural oil.  The oil will basically smother any insects that might be hatching and crawling out from their winter hideouts.  It is organic and very safe to use, but it may also smother beneficial insects so be sure only to spray if you had a problem.   Again only spray if the plant is still in bud and when the air temperature is consistently about 10 degrees celcius.  Insects will start to become active at this temperature so timing is important.  You want to make contact when they start to hatch and crawl.  You probably won't completely eliminate the pest population, but you will definitely set it back.

If you had a fungal problem last year (i.e. black knot, silver leaf, cedar-hawthorn rust, etc.), a good spring clean up is important.  Remove and destroy any plant debris that might be harboring any spores or pathogens.  Also prune out and destroy any noticeably diseased branches (it is easy to identify black knot this time of year).  Make sure you disinfect (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) your tools after every cut not to spread the disease.  After pruning, spray your woody plants with lime sulphur mixed in with the horticultural oil to help prevent spores from reattaching.  Just make sure that the plants are still in tight bud and not leafed out.  Remember this is only preventative.  If it rains, the lime sulphur may be washed away.  Also fungal problems only explode if the spore is present, the weather conditions are perfect and the specific host is present.

Cleaning up and removing any plant debris will also help to remove or expose pests that might be pupating or hatching in the ground and therefore reduce their populations.

Prevention is probably the first step to keeping your garden healthy.

My Veggie Plan

I am excited.  This year I am renting a garden plot in a community garden to grow vegetables as I no longer have space in my yard.  So as I am sitting here watching the snow melt, I have been thinking about how to go about it.

The first decision I had to make was what size would meet my needs.  I opted for a 10 x 20 foot plot, which would adequately provide enough vegetables for my family as well as room for vegetables that take up a lot of growing space.  My family has already put in their order as to what we should grow.   This is based on what they like, what we can grow in a short growing season and what we had to eliminate due to allergies.  The list consists of lettuce, spinach, onions, carrots, beets, beans, potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini and of course tomatoes.  There are many more vegetables we can grow here, just ensure there is enough growing time to enjoy them at the end of the season.

I will be anxious to plant these crops but must be patient for a couple of reasons.  First I have to wait until I can get into the garden without compacting the soil and then I need to prepare the soil so that I have at least 12 to 18 inches of rich, deep, soft, loamy soil.  I may have to add some top soil and lots of organic matter (i.e. compost or peat moss) to get a nice balance between clay, sand, silt and humus.  This will also help to create a soil composition that retains water and nutrients for the plants and drains properly when needed.  Don't underestimate how important it is to continually work at a good garden soil.

Once the soil is ready, I can plant.  Typically I can plant once the danger of frost has passed (the May long weekend is often our guide in Alberta).  But it also depends on whether I start the vegetables from seed or transplant.  Cool season vegetables can be started  by seed up to 5 weeks before the last frost.  These crops are sometimes sown in the fall for the following spring and include asparagus, beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, spinach, swiss chard and turnips.  Some vegetables are more frost sensitive and should be planted on or just prior to the last frost.  These are considered the tender vegetables and include beans, corn and zucchini.  Finally the heat-loving vegetables should be planted 1 to 2 weeks after the last frost.  These include your tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, squash and pumpkins and you may consider transplanting rather than seeding to get a good head start.  Even with these guidelines, we must always be prepared to protect young plants from a late season frost.

Next is arranging your vegetable garden.  There is no right or wrong way.  Just consider what you are planting, how much you are planting, the space each crop needs and the sun requirements for each plant.  Typically gardens are planted in rows running east to west, with the taller plants on the north end to maximize the amount of sunlight each plant receives.  However, gardens can be planted in rows, squares or whatever arrangement maximizes the harvest and is easy to maintain.

Once my garden has been planted, I will have to provide a good, steady supply of water every week.  It is especially important from the time seeds are sown until a couple of weeks after they sprout.  As a general rule, vegetables need at least one inch of water per week, but ideally vegetables should never be allowed to dry out.  This year I will be applying a straw mulch in between the rows and around the vegetables to help keep the soil moist and the weeds down.

This is my plan and I am ready to go!  How about you?

Early Spring Pruning

One of the first tasks to be undertaken in the garden is springtime pruning. Not all woody plants need to be pruned in the spring, but here are a few good reasons to get out the pruners:

1. To clean by removing any dead, diseased or damaged branches
2. To reduce the overall size of overgrown trees or shrubs
3. To thin out any branches back to the parent stem to allow more light and air to pass through or to remove any crossing branches that could cause future wounds
4. To maintain a formal shape

Most species of trees and shrubs can be pruned except for:

1. Evergreens - do not prune until they are actively growing.
2. Early flowering shrubs that bloom on last year's wood - (i.e. lilac, forsythia, mockorange, cranberry, white flowering spirea, etc.)  If you do, you will remove some of the spring flowers.

Traditionally we would not prune Maple and Birch trees until fully leafed out, but new research shows that the 'bleeding' of these species from pruning in spring does not adversely affect the trees.  So if you need to do some pruning, go ahead.

Once you have decided what needs to be pruned, ensure that the plants are still dormant; in other words still in bud.  There is less stress on the plants and the risk of being infected by insects or pathogens is reduced.

Finally, a couple of other basic rules to follow include:

1. Do not prune more than 25% of the total volume as you will be removing some of the stored energy reserves that will be needed to recover from winter
2. Make a clean cut to an outward facing bud to facilitate healing
3. If removing a diseased branch, disinfect tools after each cut not to spread the disease further
4. Do not cover any wounds with a paste - let it heal naturally

Pruning is not as difficult as it appears, but if you have any doubt about what and how to prune, call an arborist.  Pruning appropriately does help to keep your plants structurally sound and healthy.